When a Bad Fit’s the Problem

Right, you’ve got the itch to kip in the back but your hatch tent refuses to play nice — tailgate bites the canvas, rain nicks the seams, or you can’t even close the hatch. That’s the problem most blokes and lasses run into. Before you bung a tent on the car, make sure you’ve got the right car camping equipment and the measurements to match. Get the measuring wrong and you’ll be faffing with gaffer tape at midnight on muddy turf. Simple as that.

Gather the Few Tools That Actually Help

Don’t tote a toolbox. You need a decent tape measure (5 m), a straight edge or folding rule, a marker, and someone to hold the tailgate. Optionally, grab a pad of cardboard to mock-up the collar. Keep it light. If it’s dodgy weather, a tarp and a couple of heavy clips can steady things while you measure.

Step-by-Step: Measure the Bits That Matter

Start with the hatch open at the angle you’ll actually camp from. Measure these: 1) Opening width — measure across the widest usable point where the tent collar will seal against the lip. 2) Opening height — from the lowest sealing point up to the top when the hatch is at rest. 3) Internal depth — from the hatch lip back to the folded seats or bulkhead. 4) Bumper and spare-tire offsets — any protrusion that shortens usable depth. 5) Tailgate overhang and hinge clearance — how far the gate projects when open. Add a tolerance: allow 5–10 cm (2–4 in) on width and depth for wiggle room and material stretch. Note suspension sag if you’ll be loaded; measure with typical kit aboard, not an empty car.

Where Folks Usually Cock It Up

They measure the wrong points. They take tape from one grab-handle to another and call it width. They forget spoilers, cargo rails, raised tail-lights, or a rear-mounted spare. They assume the tailgate opens flat; some open at a slant and snag the tent’s collar. They ignore the angle of the hatch: the collar needs to sit straight, not half-twisted. Don’t trust a single quick tape — measure twice, at two heights, and scribble down both numbers.

Real-World Fit Check from the Field

I’ve fitted and trimmed collars after a season of helping folks at a Lake District car-camping meet and learned what actually goes wrong when the rain arrives. When a car rear tent sits too high at the hinge you get a gap at the bottom; sit it too low and the hatch won’t close on the seal. Use manufacturers’ spec sheets for collar dimensions but verify on your car — the paper spec never accounts for a dodgy aftermarket bumper or a roof rack. Treat measurements as living data: test-fit before you rely on them for a long trip.

Quick Cheatsheet — Rules That Save Time

Measure opening width and height at two points (left/right, low/high). Add 5–10 cm to width and depth for tolerance. Check bumper and spare-tire offsets and subtract them from available depth. Measure with usual kit aboard. Mock-up the collar in cardboard and test-clip it in place before you cut fabric. If in doubt, size up: a little extra room is easier to seal than a too-tight slam.

Finish Line — Get It Sorted Without the Aggravation

Don’t guess. Use the few simple measures above, mock it up, and test-fit in real conditions; that’s the quickest way to stop leaks and door-snagging. Trust gear that lists clear collar specs and match them to your taped numbers — that’s how you avoid midnight repairs. For dependable listings and consistent sizing notes I often cross-check product specs with what I’ve measured in the field, the sort of gear and info you’ll find reliably assembled at THECATAL.